We really wanted a superior filament storage arrangement that could direct the temperature and humidity inside the cabinet, so we assembled one that can hold 12 rolls! I additionally took a shot at scratching a glass door. Check it out!
This filament cabinet was intended to hold a ton of filament. There are commercially accessible filament boxes yet they either weren't temperature or dampness controlled or they didn't hold sufficient filament. So, we began with scratch and mocked one up in Fusion 360. Our objective was to hold the whole cabinet under a half sheet of plywood.
I started by building the cabinet and utilized the table saw to deal with the wood quickly. To tie down the rack to the side boards, I cut a 1/4" dado in the different sides. Utilizing wood paste and brad nails, I gathered the cabinet into one place. To hang the cabinet on the wall, I cut keyholes in the back with the help of a unique bit for my router. This keyhole bit dives into the wood and cuts a section so you can hang the entire thing on the wall with some screws.
For the door framing, I chose to cut half-lap joints for extra strength. With this rectangular casing, I needed to cut in the rabbet for the glass door board to sit in. I took my rabbeting bit and ran it within the casing, making a 1/4" ledge for the glass. To hold the panel set up whenever it's done, I utilized a point driver. This staple-gun like apparatus adds points, the little rectangular tabs that you find toward the rear of photo frames.
We needed the way to hinge up so you could get to the filament without any problem. We utilized full-overlap, soft close hinges and a few gas struts to assist the door with standing firm in its open situation. In the video we didn't add the struts since we cut the casing incorrectly, the plans have been refreshed to fix this. I utilized a hid hinge jig to install the hinges on the door frame and afterward screwed them into the top of the cabinet.
We needed the door to have a cool look so I requested our visual planner/ graphic designer to make a variation of the ILTMS "M" (our logo) that could look cool on the door. I cut this design out on the vinyl and applied it to the cut piece of glass. This mask would keep the glass clear while the exposed segments would be chemically coated utilizing a special solution.
I painted on the glass etching solution and let it sit for around 10 minutes. To wash off the solution, I headed outside and used a garden hose to clear off the surface. What was left was the etched surface and the vinyl veils. When all of the masking was removed, it looked truly cool. The combination of clear and carved glass was truly fascinating and could be masked to make a wide range of designs. I dried the door and installed it in the cabinet outline with the point driver.
Since particular kinds of 3d printing filament are hydroscopic, or the absorb water from the air, they ought to kept in a space that controls both the temperature and the relative humidity. To cause our cabinet to do both, we found a heating rod implied for weapon safes that brings the temperature up in a space and forces out the wet air. I mounted this rod inside the cabinet and drilled a few holes on the side to go about as vents. To screen the conditions inside the cabinet, we additionally added a inexpensive temperature and moistness sensor.
Since the cabinet is set for filament storage, we thought that the filament could be drawn from inside the cabinet while printing. We modeled up some simple spool holders with some skateboard bearings and we drilled a hole under the spool area. We put one of our printers under the hung cabinet and we were able to print easily from the shut cabinet!
Since this cabinet is going over my hardware station, I needed it to hang my tools under. I added my magnetic tool holders to the cabinet's underside and mounted a plug extension aside. With these extra pieces added, the filament cabinet was finished.
Subscribe to our Newslatter
Sign up for free and be the first to get notified about new posts.